Fresh tuna catch being prepared for processing next to a boiling vat. The initial sorting and cleaning of fish marks the beginning of the traditional mas-making process.
In the Lakshadweep archipelago, where the events of life move with the tides, mas-making continues to survive as one of its most significant traditional practices. This method of preserving tuna through a careful process of cleaning, boiling, smoking, and sun-drying represents not just a food preservation technique, but a vital economic and cultural practice that has sustained island communities for generations.
The Making of Mas
The process begins at sea, where fishermen bring in their tuna catch. The transformation from fresh tuna to mas follows a precise, time-tested method. First, the fish is prepared by removing the head and entrails. Workers skillfully remove the fins and bones, then clean the fish thoroughly in seawater. The tuna is then quartered into four substantial fillets, which undergo careful washing to remove any remaining blood.
The day’s tuna catch laid out on a Lakshadweep beach under specially installed tube-lights. Night landings are common as fishermen return from their day-long expeditions, and the mas-making process often begins in these early evening hours.
The next stage involves boiling these fillets in a solution of equal parts salt and fresh water. After boiling, the pieces are smoked, a crucial step that adds both flavour and preservation properties. The final and most time-consuming phase is the sun-drying process, which typically takes a week. During this period, the fish gradually hardens, developing the characteristic texture and flavour of mas. When properly prepared, mas can be stored for up to two years, making it a valuable commodity for both local consumption and export.
Economic Significance
Mas holds particular importance as one of Lakshadweep’s primary exports, with strong demand from neighbouring maritime regions, especially Sri Lanka and the Maldives. This trade connection highlights the historical and ongoing maritime relationships between these Indian Ocean communities that share similar cultural practices and dietary preferences. The mas-making industry provides significant employment opportunities across the islands. From the fishermen who catch the tuna to the skilled workers who process it, and the traders who market the final product, the industry supports numerous families and contributes substantially to the local economy.
The boiling stage continues through the night at a mas-making unit. Large vessels of salted water are kept at precise temperatures, with coconut husks providing sustainable fuel for the fires.
Cultural and Social Impact
Beyond its economic value, mas-making represents a vital part of Lakshadweep’s cultural heritage. The practice has been passed down through generations, with families often specializing in different aspects of the production process. This traditional knowledge transfer helps maintain community bonds and preserves cultural identity.
After boiling, the mas is laid out to dry on smoking platforms. The careful balance of heat and smoke, controlled through coconut husk fires beneath the wire mesh, is crucial for developing mas’s distinctive flavor.
The process often involves community participation, with different households sometimes sharing drying spaces and smoking facilities. This cooperative approach to production strengthens social ties and maintains the collaborative spirit characteristic of island communities.
Environmental Sustainability
The traditional mas-making process represents a sustainable approach to food preservation. It requires minimal energy input, relying primarily on natural elements like the sun and sea salt. This environmentally conscious method aligns well with modern concerns about sustainable food production and preservation.
A traditional drying platform on a Lakshadweep beach, with a fishing boat in the background. The mesh-wire surface allows proper air circulation while coconut palms provide partial shade, helping achieve the perfect drying conditions for mas.
Modern Challenges and Adaptations
Today, mas-makers face various challenges, from changing weather patterns that affect the drying process to evolving market demands. However, the fundamental techniques remain largely unchanged, a solid reminder of their effectiveness and cultural value. Some producers have begun incorporating modern elements into the traditional process, such as improved smoking techniques or more efficient drying methods, while maintaining the essential character of the product.
Rows of freshly boiled tuna fillets undergo sun-drying on raised platforms. This traditional drying method, perfected over generations, allows proper air circulation while protecting the fish from sand and debris.
Future Prospects
The mas-making tradition in Lakshadweep offers insights into how island communities have historically solved the challenge of food security while creating economic opportunities. Today, as the islands face modernization, this practice continues to be relevant, both as a source of livelihood and as a link to their cultural heritage.
A mas-maker sorts through and packs the partially dried tuna fillets laid out over coconut palms. This final stage requires careful attention to ensure even drying and prevent spoilage, after which the mas becomes ready for consumption and sale.
As interest in traditional food preservation methods grows globally, mas from Lakshadweep has the potential to reach wider markets. The challenge lies in scaling production while maintaining traditional quality, ensuring sustainable fishing practices and competing with higher-quality maas products produced by other regions.
The mas-making tradition in Lakshadweep embodies islander ingenuity, creates bonds between generations, and remains a culinary art that has survived centuries of change. In these simple, daily practices of catching, cutting, smoking, and drying, the islands preserve not just tuna, but a way of life that connects their past to their present.